#surfworthy stories vol.3 - Meet Alice Jackson

May 11, 2017

 

 

We asked lifelong surfer and yoga instructor Alice, what makes a real surfer women?

 

Her response: 'Anyone who picks up a board and gives it a go!'

 

We can't argue with that.. after years of surfing you lose touch of the courage it takes to pick up that board and paddle out for the first time, so kudos ladies! Alice has inspired us to write down our top tips for any surfer looking to step up to bigger waves. You can read it here.

 

But first, here's more from Alice...

 

Why did you decide to learn how to surf?

 

My parents used to take us to Cornwall every year for our annual summer holiday. Without fail it would rain. After a while they realised we could have more fun in the rain if we were already wet in the sea. We started learning with SurfsUp, Polzeath, when they operated out of the back of their car (circa 1995??). My brothers and I loved going out in the water, even if it meant a freezing, post-surf change in the car park.

 

What was your motivation to keep going after that first experience in the waves?

 

I adored the feeling of freedom I felt, nothing quite matched the experience. Aged 14, I started to take it a bit more seriously and really relished my time in the water. From there I just kept going. I don’t go as regularly as I’d like, which I'm hoping to change now I’m moving to Spain!

 

What does surfing add to your life?

 

It’s such an amazing and incredible sport. Being out in the water is meditative, fun, sometimes scary and usually thrilling in some way or another. I’ve travelled the world looking for great waves. Through my trips I’ve met lots of interesting and passionate surf nuts who love being in the water as much as I do.  It’s also allowed me to experience other cultures and ways of life through visiting some of these far and wide countries.

 

What challenges have you faced in your surf practice, physically and/or mentally? How did you overcome them?

 

Oh fear is a big one for me. It’s such a barrier to my progression. Considering I started surfing as a kid I would hope to be a lot better. I really fear larger waves, I don’t mind getting wiped out once I'm in the water, but I hate nose diving. I’m still holding out for the moment I face my fears and just go on a bigger wave without pulling out!

 

How do you feel being a woman in the line-up?

 

I feel proud to be in the line up. For sure when I’ve been in places like Uluwatu, Bali or Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka, during peak season you get cut up on the waves. You really have to commit to the wave or people try to steal it from you. It’s satisfying to prove people wrong when you take a good wave and don’t just steal it from another!

 

What is your favourite part of the world to surf?

 

Ahh Bali, Indonesia for sure, it’s perfection. When I first went there in 2010 I felt like I had landed in surfing paradise. Perfect conditions; off-shore, glassy and surf-able for me. I also love Lombok as it’s quieter and going out to surf with the fishing boats at sunrise is magical, plus the people are just amazing.

 

What is one of your best surfing memories?

 

Good question! Something that stands out was a moment in Barra, Mexico. I’d been there for about ten days and this was my last morning. I was up early with my surf guide and there was only one other guy out. We had a chat and then this beautiful wave rolled in, this guy was calling me onto it and I just went for it. It was one of those mornings when the light was glistening on the water and the wave felt powerful and so much fun to ride. It was a pretty great way to end my time in Mexico!

 

What do you look for in your surf clothing?

 

Durability in a bikini is key, and that it won’t show my boobs when I wipe-out. I mostly like to surf in warmer waters so the bikini needs to be able to stand sunshine and a lot of wear and tear. It needs to stay on, not show too much ass and be colourful if possible!

 

On a big day, what’s your main motivation for paddling out?

 

Ha I’m still working on that! If a bigger set rolls in I’m usually the one paddling out to sea to avoid taking the wave. Any tips on taking bigger waves are welcome. 

 

We want to make surf clothing for ‘real surfer women’, what does that mean to you?

 

For me a real surfer woman is anyone who picks up a board and gives it a go. Often these women are passionate, dedicated, adventurous, persistent and ambitious!

 

 

Thank you Alice - we couldn't agree more! That's exactly what we were looking for in a high functioning surf bikini - and the reason we designed the 'Wave Warrior' Collection! Here's Alice wearing the Black Superhero Top to practice:

 

 

 

You can visit Alice's website 'More To Yoga' to find out more about her other passion, yoga!

 

Website: moretoyoga.com

Instagram @moretoyoga 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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